From a warm microclimate, with vines planted largely in 1989 on hard limestone, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has turned out beautifully, rising from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, peach, pear and white flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, open-knit and textural, it is expressive, with a generous core of fruit, underpinned by racy acidity and concluding in a long, saline finish. Perched above the Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets vineyards, it possesses the tension and cut characteristic of such high-altitude sites. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis.(KK)