Fevre’s 2008 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots – from the steep, riverside portion of Bougros – ripened to an exceptional degree for its vintage, relates Didier Seguier, yet retained the highest acidity. Crushed chalk; alkaline, saline, maritime elements; bright lemon and grapefruit segue from the nose to a silken-textured palate of vibratory vivacity, with tart fruit skin chew and citrus rind pungency adding further invigoration to a wine that already seems to be rumbling on the runway and poised to take off. As with the corresponding Preuses, the sweeter, more ingratiatingly savory side of Chablis minerality is absent here – for now at least – with sheer high voltage and strikingly palate-staining chalk, alkali, salt, and citrus offering ample compensation. Rapier as well as animated in finish, this preserves an admirable, indeed almost magical sense of transparency to mineral nuance. Look for a dozen or more years of intense fascination but don’t be in too much hurry to pull the second cork. (DS)