The 2023 Bourgogne Aligoté Les Champs d'Argent is an intriguing wine. Attractive scents of lemon verbena, lemon curd and hints of chamomile unfold on the nose that, as I mentioned to Lachaux directly, echoes a white Rhône. The palate has not so much a "creamy" texture as plenty of substance—perhaps more waxy, becoming oilier with aeration. There is fine depth and impressive density, though not length or the reductiveness that seems to electrify Lalou Bize-Leroy's feted Aligoté. Examining this articulation of the resurgent variety, I unquestionably enjoy it. (NM)