I’ve had a long love affair with the wines of Pegau. Dating back nearly 30 years to when I first started in the wine business, Pegau was one of the very first Châteauneufs I ever encountered. I was immediately struck by the wine’s sensuous fruit tones layered with all of those savory, sauvage characteristics that make the region so compelling. I still remember serving it alongside braised bresaola — one of the first truly memorable food-and-wine experiences I ever put together for myself and a couple of close friends. A few decades later, the wines still speak volumes to me. The 2023 shows lovely nuance, highlighting the slightly fresher profile of the vintage compared to the more brooding intensity of the 2022s. Blackberry, potpourri, and smoked brisket are just a few of the aromas that leap from the glass. There’s real lift on the finish as the acidity keeps the wine focused and energetic. Another beautiful example of classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape from one of the region’s truly iconic estates.