The 2023 Corton Clos Rognet Grand Cru—as usual, the first vines picked—is matured in 60% new oak (less since the 2020 vintage). I appreciate the nose's focused composure: it's neat and tidy with pure red fruit and subtle hints of graphite and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and saline toward the finish. This is a worthy follow-up to the 2022.(NM)

Impressive and powerful, although Jean-Nicolas Méo qualifies it as 'a bit monstrous', since it will finish up between 14%-14.5% alcohol. Nonetheless, this is a marvellous wine, with lush blackberry and fig fruit touched with notes of earth, smoke and spice. The grapes from this 0.45ha parcel were the first picked and had to be sorted carefully for shrivelled fruit. This will open well in five to seven years and drink over the next 25.(CC)

A true clos with old walls and vines planted in 1925, this has been nominated for prettiestvineyard at the domain. It is also always the first to be harvested thanks to the walls and its idyllic east-facing orientation. The wine is delicious, too, with rather discreet oak (at 60%, this is the second year it has seen a little less new wood), crunchy fruits and suave tannins. This will be tempting early on but is highly reliable with age