The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea comes from a single parcel in En Combe du Bas. This has a lovely bouquet with touches of dark cherry, blackcurrant leaf and pressed violet. The palate is well balanced with ample body, dark berry fruit tones laced with white pepper and clove and a grippy finish with a touch of licorice on the aftertaste. It is very fine.(NM)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea is fleshy and vibrant, offering up aromas of plums, cherries, berries and smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied palate framed by chalky tannins. The Trapet family has produced an attractive set 2023s. As readers will remember, there have been a host of changes at this address in recent years: in 2020, fully seven hectares of the domaine's holdings were converted both to échalas and to higher trellising stakes and wires, depending on the steepness of the slope. Since then, changes have been rolled out in other parcels too. Given the extent of Trapet's holdings in prime climats, that means that the walk from Morey-Saint-Denis to Gevrey-Chambertin suddenly looks rather different. In the cuverie, winemaking continues to be classical, with important percentages of whole clusters, followed by élevage in ever diminishing percentages of new oak, with foudres joining barrels in the cellar.(WK)

Note: from very old vines situated in Clos du Village and Combe du Bas. This is also quite pretty and fresh with its airy aromas of both red and dark currant and iron-inflected nuances. The elegant and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense but I like the refinement and energy, all wrapped in a dusty, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish.