This particular release of Jean-Marc Sélèque’s “Solessence” non-vintage Extra Brut is from the base year of 2017, but this is augmented by its customary fifty percent of reserve wines from the solera dedicated to this cuvée. I had not opened a bottle of this wine out of my cellar since the autumn of 2021, so I was curious to see how it was evolving. The wine today offers up a superb bouquet of apple, pear, fresh-baked bread, almond, a fine base of chalky soil tones, a touch of buttery oak and a gently floral topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and still has a fine spine of acidity, with lovely depth of fruit, fine mineral undertow and grip, elegant mousse and a long, complex and impeccably balanced finish. This is drinking beautifully today, but still has plenty of future ahead of it! 92+

Disgorged in April 2024 after five years of maturation under cork, the 2019 vintage–based NV Extra Brut Solessence Nature is a dosage-free iteration of the standard NV Solessence, distinguished by extended aging sur lattes. It opens with an expressive bouquet of jasmine, orange zest, pear and brioche, with a hint of exotic fruit. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, combining depth and texture with tangy acidity. This cuvée balances the maturity characteristic of the vintage with underlying tension, culminating in a long, saline finish. More harmoniously integrated than the regular 2022-based edition, it exemplifies the potential and rationale behind Sélèque’s decision to prolong the aging for his flagship cuvée. (KK)

The NV Extra Brut Solessence is bright, airy and inviting. Citrus peel, mint, white flowers and chalk open first, followed by hints of pear, lime and jasmine. The blend is 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Meunier, done in a style that emphasizes freshness. Low dosage of 2 grams per liter works very well in exalting tension. Disgorged: January 2024. (AG)