The 2013 Ermitage Ex Voto is more concentrated as well as structured. Bacon fat, graphite, burning embers, and loads of darker fruits all emerge from this full-bodied, layered, silky Ex Voto that shines for its purity and elegance, all while still packing plenty of fruit. Bottles need 4-5 years, but it’s going to cruise in the cellar two decades.

A big, bold dark plum, chocolate and roasted coffee nose with dark stones and a swathe of fragrant baking spices. The palate has a succulent and powerful feel. Dark ripe cherry fruits and toasty oak are well matched.

The 2013 Hermitage Ex Voto is a great effort given the vintage. It shows all the classic elements of the appellation, from complex notes of leather, meat and spice to crushed stone and grilled plums. Already approachable, this medium to full-bodied wine shows silky tannins and crisp acids on the long finish.