Deep and seamless, the 2020 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles mingles aromas of cherry and berry fruit with hints of rose petals, orange rind, sweet spices and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, suave and velvety, with terrific concentration, fine tannins and lively acids, it's the most elegant wine in the range. The 2020 vintage has turned out very well indeed at Domaine Robert Chevillon. With finished alcohols around 13.7% to 13.9%, these are deep and powerful wines that remain nicely balanced, and they're built to age. Indeed, in their vibrant, concentrated style, they remind me somewhat of the domaine's 2016s, something one wouldn't have thought possible on paper. The bad news is that yields were down, the Chevillon brothers having lost the equivalent of one entire harvest over the course of the 2019, 2020 and 2021 vintages. As I've written before, this is one of my favorite addresses in all of Burgundy. Old vines, cultivated soils, moderate yields and long fermentations with entirely destemmed grapes are the order of the day at this address, with the Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes seeing some 20% new oak and the premiers crus 30%. Nuits' Tonnellerie Sirugue is the dominant supplier of barrels. (WK)