So much energy and salt, anchoring forest fruit, boysenberries and crushed violets against a tug of earth. Mineral, filigreed and refined, this is capable of aging for decades yet provides tremendous short-term pleasure. Drink or hold.

Within a remarkable set of wines, the 2023 Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard gets my nod as the most multidimensional wine in The Hilt's portfolio. While several wines in the lineup display oceanic, kelp and nori-like aromas, none render them with the exceptional purity and vivid nature displayed here. The palate continues this purity, combining outrageous density with a spry, silken texture, seamlessly slingshotting into a vibrant, staining and succulent finish that lingers endlessly, thanks to extraordinarily refined tannins and the site's ubiquitous soaring salinity. This is a reference point for the region and one that I am tremendously excited to follow in the cellar

The 2023 Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard is explosive, expressive and deeply serious. It builds all the way from the first sip until long after it leaves the palate. Sneaky, integrated acids keep the train moving, but this is an inward, mineral-drenched wine with a brooding, youthful edge. Inky red fruit, spice, crushed rocks and lavender flesh out in a complex expression that will need considerable time to fill in completely. That said, it will certainly be worth the wait. 96+