A show-stopping Pinot Noir from Nico Cueva, fermented in concrete, oak and stainless steel, including 6% whole-cluster fruit, then aged in separate lots for 16 months in 40% new French oak, before blending and an additional four months in neutral oak and steel. High-toned, heady aromas of dark cherry and sarsaparilla, pine bark and tangy grapefruit zest, towing the line between haughty decadence and controlled restraint. Savoury and sweet flavours emerge in waves, backed by fine-grained cedar tannins and gentle acidity, then lingering notes of crème brûlée, pine, cocoa and rose petals. (JC)