Brought up in 45% new French oak, the 2017 Pinot Noir Bootlegger's Hill Vineyard reveals a medium ruby/translucent color as well as a complex bouquet of redcurrants, leafy herbs, damp earth, iodine, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, with an elegant texture, lots of classic Russian River spice, and outstanding length. it shows the more elegant streamlined style of the vintage, yet I suspect it's going to age gracefully. Give bottles 2-3 years and it should keep for a decade. Another estate that has changed their style (for the better, I think), Kosta Browne’s latest 2018s have beautiful purity and elegance as well as richness. They’re certainly in the top handful of wines in this report.

The 2017 Pinot Noir Bootlegger's Hill was aged in several vessels: 31% new French oak, 19% wooden tanks, 20% concrete and 3% Austrian oak, from 10 to 16 months. Pale to medium ruby, it gives up friendly aromas of strawberry and raspberry jam, tangerine, tree bark and mushroom plus nuances of peppercorn, charcuterie and aniseed. Medium-bodied, it's earth-driven in the mouth with a sturdy framing of ripe tannins and just enough freshness on the long finish. This needs more time to come together in bottle. (EB) 91+

Crushed mineral notes flank the zesty raspberry and red fruit flavors. The juicy finish features lively acidity and light spicy accents. (KM)