The 2018 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is produced from Montrachet clone vines (what Mark Aubert calls “the citrus circus clone") grown in Rutherford AVA. It starts off a little closed at this youthful stage, soon unfurling to reveal notions of peach cobbler and pink grapefruit with an undercurrent of allspice, powdered ginger and chalk dust. The palate comes through with a powerful wall of concentrated stone fruit and baking spice flavors, supported by just enough freshness to lend balance and lift, finishing long and decadently toasty. (LPB)