2019 Clendenen Family Vineyards "The Pip" Santa Maria Valley Nebbiolo (Winery Direct Library Release)

The 2019 Clendenen Family Vineyards “The Pip” Santa Maria Valley Nebbiolo (Winery Direct Library Release) is absolutely lovely to sip. As I write this, it’s late at night, and I’m having it with crackers and some cold leftover steak after receiving it as a reward from an esteemed K&L colleague for catching (and later releasing in the wooded area of my backyard) a massive wolf spider in her bathroom. I wasn’t planning on drinking wine or even eating dinner, but I couldn’t resist opening this bottle as soon as I got home. After the first sip, I felt more than fairly compensated for my efforts. Black plum, juicy berries, dried rose petals, lemon balm, rooibos tea, and a subtle tarry note unfold across the palate, with a stony mineral quality adding another layer of complexity. It’s light on its feet, with food-friendly acidity and the kind of easygoing character that makes it just as enjoyable with a few casual snacks as it is at the dinner table. At full price, it’s an excellent value. At more than 45% off right now, it’s a screaming deal. Buy this for dinner with friends who know and love wine, particularly fans of the late, great Jim Clendenen and Au Bon Climat. As a library release from such a storied producer, it’s the kind of bottle your host or fellow guests will appreciate without ever knowing how little you paid for it. True to Italian tradition, “The Pip” spent three years aging in large 500-liter Hungarian oak puncheons, followed by another year in bottle before its original release. It has now had an additional seven years to rest and is still going strong, a thoughtful and elegantly rendered expression of Nebbiolo. Dog lovers may also get a kick out of the fact that the Pip series is named for Jim’s beloved late Border Collie, Pip. I can’t help smiling at the thought of the two of them being together again. I like to think that all dogs and great winemakers go to heaven.