The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes 1er Cru clearly has more complexity on the nose than the Village Cru. Touches of yellow plum and peach skin open, but there is a mineralité tucked just underneath. The palate is well balanced with a smooth entry, revealing notes of orange pith and peach. The acidity is judged just right, and though it misses some tension on the finish, this will be very seductive.(NM)

The climat of les Charmes in Puligny-Montrachet is not a premier cru, but it is a continuation of the premier cru of the same name that lies contiguous with it and just over the border in Meursault. The 2023 version from the Lafon family was assembled in tank at the time of my visit and showing excellent potential, delivering a bouquet of apple, peach, a fine base of chalky soil tones, acacia blossoms, vanillin oak and a lovely touch of candied lemon in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and racy in personality, with a really excellent foundation of minerality, a lovely core of fruit, excellent balance and a long, complex and soil-driven finish. A lovely new addition to the lineup chez Lafon. (Drink between 2025-2050)

From demi-muid. One of the paler colours. Steelier at first on the nose then richer fruit behind, nearly honeyed. Then more tension on the palate, a little more of everything than the village, but not yet as together. This will be more concentrated, but I did like the finesse of the other cuvee. Drink from 2028-2031. Tasted Oct 2024.