The new Puligny-Montrachet AC bottling was also showing very nicely at the time of my visit, despite having only been bottled in December. The wine offers up a complex nose of peach, apple, a lovely base of chalky soil tones, fruit blossoms and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and nicely racy in personality, with a fine core of fruit, good soil undertow and grip, lovely balance and a long, zesty and nicely precise finish. This is really a very good villages! (Drink between 2025-2045)

Another small new cuvée for Lafon is the 2023 Puligny-Montrachet, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless white redolent of peach, pear, freshly baked bread and white flowers. With good energy and precision, it's a very pretty wine in the making. The 2023 vintage is another success from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, now headed by Léa and Pierre Lafon, delivering both quantity and quality like 2022 before it, though in a somewhat fleshier, more extroverted style. While a few new cuvées have joined the range, for now, no big changes are afoot, and Dominque Lafon continues to be a guiding presence. Organic and biodynamic farming in the vineyards, barrel fermentation for whites, two winters' élevage on the lees for both colors and bottling under Diam technical corks (since 2013) continue to be the order of the day.(WK)

Note: from a leased .50 ha holding in the tiny vineyard of Champ Croyon; 2022 was the first vintage. A more elegant and notably more floral-suffused nose speaks of spiced tea and orange peel. The rich and equally generous medium-bodied flavors are almost lavish on the palate before terminating in a slightly finer and youthfully austere finale that is firm enough to need 5 to 8 years of keeping.