This preview of the 2023 Clos de la Roche at Ponsot shows a wine of intensity and elegance, with ripe blackberry fruit, hints of violets and a savoury, salty mineral note. At this point, the wine is still closed and not displaying its richness, but a dynamic freshness and vivacity carry it to an impressive finish. Although a more difficult vintage than 2022, the wine shows transparency and clarity of fruit. For best results, wait at least five years before opening.(CC)

Ponsot is by far the largest landowner of Clos de la Roche with a whopping 3.35 ha in three big blocks, and all are included here this vintage. The color is impressively dark, even with a hint of russet coming through. Spice drawer and toast slowly eke from the glass. The palate tags on blackberry coulis, underbrush and fireplace embers. The structure is imposing but artfully crafted with everything nicely aligned. Grainy tannins link with high-toned acidity and seemingly stretch the reserved flavors into an eternal finish. This needs at least seven to eight years.

Note: the aggregate size of this holding is a whopping 3.4 ha and Ponsot is by far the largest holder in Clos de la Roche. If the Chapelle has the most floral-suffused nose in the range, this has the spiciest with its nose of beautifully layered red berry aromas that are nuanced by hints of violet, earth and a smoky nuance. The gorgeously textured and impressively scaled flavors possess both fine volume and underlying tension while delivering outstanding length on the moderately austere, palate coating and balanced finish that is also very much built-to-age. This is terrific but be aware that it is a wine that will require a minimum of 10 years of keeping and ultimately, probably closer to 20.