Bright mid ruby, not much nose, but the suggestion of a lighter brighter approach. Very good red fruit energy on the palate, a suspicion of limestone, clean and fairly long. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) has turned out especially well, bursting with aromas of blood orange, smoky berries, rose petals and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and suave, it captures the ethereal profile of this higher-altitude site. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.(WK)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an attractive nose: black cherries, white-tipped strawberries and subtle sous-bois scents. The aromatics are cohesive and focused, the oak nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. There's real weight here (so much more than the preceding Village Cru!), and it lingers in the mouth. Quite sensual in style, this all bodes well for when this Estournelles is bottled.(NM)