Served from an ex-chateau bottle. Sauternes only produced two exceptional wines in 1982: Suduiraut and Yquem. Although I have encountered the 1982 Chateau d’Yquem on three occasions, this is the finest bottle. It was an early vintage, physiological ripeness reached on September 16. Rainfall interrupted the harvest that really could not start in earnest until November 2, for just four days. It has a lucid amber color, and a fully mature bouquet with mandarin and marmalade aromas that are pure and well-delineated. Yes, there is a sense of conservatism here, yet you cannot but help be seduced by its exquisite balance and linearity. It gently builds to a lovely apricot and orange zest finish, with just a hint of rosewater lingering on the aftertaste. Drink now-2025. Tasted March 2014. (NM)