2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy St-Aubin 1er Cru "Les Murgers des Dents de Chien"

From 45-year-old vines affected by a virus that produces small, yellow-skinned berries with a higher solids-to-juice ratio, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien is superb, blossoming in the glass with aromas of lemon confit, Anjou pear, white flowers, pear and orange oil. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, animated by bright acidity and structured around ample chalky extract, culminating in a long, saline finish. It is another superb rendition of this great site. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis.(WK)