From a sunny site with hard limestone soils, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix—shaped by cool nights that confer a racier, fresher, more incisive profile—offers aromas of nashi pear, peach and toast, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, chiseled palate that concludes with a long, chalky finish. It lies a stone’s throw from the Derrière Chez Édouard vineyard. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis.(WK)

The 2023 Saint-Aubin Clos de Meix 1er Cru comes from vines planted in 1995 on hard limestone soils. This feels tightly wound and like a coiled spring on the nose: dew-dappled green apple, a touch of petrichor emerging with time but staying in a lower gear. The palate is very well balanced with decent depth. It does not possess the amplitude of the more esteemed holdings, though there is a steeliness, a sense of reserve that I admire.(NM)