2023 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol

Deep and heady aromatics, so perfumed with floral blackcurrant at the fore. Round and filling, tannins upfront and present, cushioning, pillowy and fleshy. This is full and immediate, packed with intensity and purpose. Great depth of fruit - layers of dark bramble berries - but it’s the tannins and overall sensation that is just amazing, yet there’s still an edge of precision and sharpness that defines the finish. A real benchmark. A wonderful wine. Concentrated, fresh, very Pomerol. No Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend this year. (GH)

Every once in a while, I get the chance to taste in the humble cellars of Vieux Chateau Certan, where Alexandre Thienpont lets the wines speak for themselves, and they not only speak with volume, but also great harmony. The 2023 is such a wine, one that just puts a smile on your face. Thienpont called this vintage "back to Bordeaux," capturing the classic notes of a fine VCC. The most vibrant wine aromatically of perhaps the whole vintage, it had wild aromas of bright fruit, florals, and a deep clay minerality. On the palate it is layered, with perfect fruit, balanced and seamless texture, and refreshing acidity. The finish is long, and each smell/sip brings another nuance. It's a wine you want to spend time with. 2023 Vieux Chateau Certan is a brilliant Pomerol and a success by any measure.