Although the colour of the wine is now bricking at the rim, the core still has a deep, tawny/garnet hue. The aromas here are significantly mature, including smoke, truffle, cedar and earth. Yet a lovely ripe plummy fruit lingers attractively on the balanced, elegant finish. Although this is drinking well now, fans of mature wine will likely be thrilled with its continued evolution. Top quality from a top vintage and definitely not in decline. (CC)

It is time that the 1982 Haut-Brion got the respect it deserves. Forever deemed the "least" of the First Growth, that holds no water if this example is anything to go by, the best of a couple of dozen bottles encountered over many years. Amazingly-fresh on the nose, this shimmers with red fruit, black olive, meat juices and incense, gaining vigour with each swirl of the glass. The palate is perfectly balanced with a lovely line of acidity, focused and refined with just a slightly roasted character towards the finish. Harmonious and effortless, it is the kind of claret that leaves you grinning like a Cheshire cat. (NM)

A rich, dense cushioning of fruit, set against a cedar and toasted spice backdrop, makes the nose full of integrity and promise. Rich blackberry with soft menthol on the finish, this is again absurdly young and tight for a wine that is in its fourth decade and another few decades ahead seems almost a certainty. Clear florality also, with a redcurrant and grilled herbs fragrance that catches prettily at the back of the throat. Totally beautiful, even with the sweet iodine tang that just begins to betray its age. Supremely drinkable.