From white marl over limestone, akin to the Kimmeridgian soils of Chablis, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes emerges from the glass with aromas of nashi pear, white flowers, oyster juice, white peach and lemon oil. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, pure and chiseled, with a crisp core of fruit and ample chalky extract, concluding in a long, saline finish. Oceanic in style, it will delight purists. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis.(KK)

The 2023 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru comes from various aged vines within five holdings that represent 2.7 hectares. You cannot help but imagine a stormy sea coast on the nose due to its tangible salinity. The palate is very well balanced with quite an intense, almost viscous opening. This has a keen line of acidity, taut and fresh with just a touch of exoticism on the finish courtesy of that warm summer. Lovely.(NM)