From vines planted largely between 1970 and 1975, the 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots also incorporates fruit from Lamy’s young vines—between three and 12 years of age—from his high-density plantings at 20,000 vines per hectare. It offers aromas of white flowers, pear, orange oil and white peach. Medium-bodied and taut, it is charged with electric acidity and concludes with a searingly saline finish. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis.(KK)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots, planted at 11,000 vines per hectare, has a fresh bouquet with green apple, pear and citronella scents that are just beautifully defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and tensile then just winding down towards a more low-key subtle finish. Very classy.(NM)