Originating from soils where a mere 20 centimeters of red clay overlies the limestone and from vines planted in 1988, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles rises from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, orange oil and beeswax. Medium- to full-bodied, it is broad and textural on the palate, with succulent acidity, exhibiting slightly less cut than Lamy’s Saint-Aubin bottlings. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis.(KK)