A site where Lamy began his harvest this year, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs emerges from the glass with notes of peach, lemon oil and pear, mingled with white flowers. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, ample and textural, underpinned by racy acidity, it displays a less fleshy personality than the precocious nature of the site might suggest. Harvested between September 2 and 12, Olivier Lamy has produced another compelling range of wines in 2023, despite below-average rainfall, a hot growing season and localized hail in July. This year, he pursued greater extraction to endow the wines with a more pronounced dry extract, lending them a firmer structure and a heightened sensation of freshness. After all, he is a vigneron who believes that taste matters more than mere analysis. This is an estate whose wines have traditionally required a measure of patience in their youth, yet the 2023s—like the 2022s—are strikingly approachable, exhibiting a youthful expressiveness and sense effortless this year that makes them especially appealing. Bottling under Diam 30 for whites, with concomitantly somewhat lower levels of free sulfites, surely has something to do with it. But it's probably also simply the result of over two decades of work coming together in a seamless synthesis. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at 24,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; his own Chardonnay nursery for massal selection; extended maturatio

Picked from September 2, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet La Concis de Champs has impressive mineralité on the nose, lending more complexity than the previous vintage. The palate is taut and linear on the entry, a subtle marine influence here, sapid with oyster shell and seaweed notes towards the finish. This is going to be difficult to resist in its youth, so maybe just don't?(NM)