Firm and polished tannins highlight this second wine from Pichon Lalande, with dark berry, chocolate, meat and cedar character as well as lead pencil. Very polished with structure and length. Needs time to soften.

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has developed into an elegant, polished Pauillac. Silky, aromatic and racy, the 2021 is seriously impressive. Graphite, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice meld into a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. In some recent years, the Réserve has been a big wine, maybe too big. In 2021, it’s a wine of unbelievable elegance. The winemaking team gave this a bit more new oak (70%) at the beginning of élevage—an unusual choice—then dialed it back to 60% for 12 months. (AG)

Wafting from the glass with notes of blackberries, minty cassis, petals and pencil shavings, the 2021 Resèrve de la Comtesse is medium to full-bodied, ample and polished, with a fleshy core of fruit, beautifully refined tannins and a seamless, succulent profile. This beautifully balanced wine will drink well on release. It's one of the most successful second wines produced this year. (WK)