Shows beautiful, lacy texture, weaving persistent and mouthwatering acidity with flavors of patisserie pear, dried apricot, almond paste, pickled ginger, acacia blossom and clover honey. This is underscored by a rich note of smoky minerality that rings out on the finish. *Collectibles* (AN)

Bright yellow. Powerful smoke- and ginger-accented aromas of poached pear, honey and white flowers, along with a suave mineral overtone and a hint of toasted brioche. Sappy and buttery on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors underscored by a chalky mineral nuance. At once fleshy and energetic, finishing with outstanding clarity, thrust and smoky length. Cream-colored label, indicating a later disgorgement, in this case 2012, as opposed to the earlier disgorged black label version, which was disgorged in 2011. (JR, in Vinous)

Taking the masculine power of the 2002 vintage and running with it, this comes across as massive and powerful, all of its swagger suspended by a team of needling bubbles. Oak furthers the structural intensity, as does an almost tannic leesiness, wrapped in flavors that range from vanilla custard to fresh macadamia nut. The final impression is sumptuous, tasting enough like wild mushrooms and lobster to match a dish combining the two. For now, it’s best left to rest in the cellar.