Sylvie Poillot called this wine "wholesome", and I agree. There's a bit of everything here, flavor-wise. Toasted brioche, cultured butter, apricot preserves and wet stones create a dynamo on the palate. The structure is prim and proper with taut acidity focusing the succulent fruit. Here Vougeraie has almost half a hectare planted in 1977.

Note: from a .46 ha holding. Here the elegant nose is cooler and more restrained with a much more discreet application of wood framing the layered spicy aromas of honeysuckle, white peach and a variety of floral nuances. The notably more refined and beautifully textured flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a persistent, balanced and markedly dry finale that is unusually powerful. This BBM is terrific and classy, indeed it's impressively poised for such a young wine.

The 2022 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru outclasses the Bâtard-Montrachet for the second year with more tension and energy on the nose, petrichor and Granny Smith apples. The well-balanced palate has a fine bead of acidity, with a little creaminess developing toward its back end. It remains composed and, again, shows a bit more intent of purpose than the Bâtard. Very fine.(NM)