Some vintages of Montevetrano are hard to appreciate when they are young. The 2004 is not one of them. Rich and explosive from the outset, the 2004 has all of the elements to be one of the truly great Montevetranos. Firm yet silky tannins frame deep layers of exuberant, perfumed fruit that caress the palate with stunning grace. This is simply flat-out great. (AG)