The 2021 Chardonnay Tank Fruit is composed of fruit from the White Walnut Vineyard, a relatively new vineyard comprising eight acres planted around 2015 in the Dundee Hills. "The genetics that produced this is rare," winemaker Jim Maresh explains, noting that the diverse clonal material in this vineyard includes 10 different heritage selections. The White Walnut Vineyard cuvée was fermented in oak and finished in stainless steel—the opposite of this 2021 Chardonnay Tank Fruit, which also comes from the White Walnut Vineyard but is fermented in stainless steel and finished in oak—although both wines offer singular exoticism. The Tank Fruit is bursting with intense aromas of peaches, fruit cocktail, lemongrass and orange oil with streaks of spice and herbs. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and seamless, gaining amplitude in the mouth as it releases wave after wave of concentrated fruit. It has a soft frame of flinty accents, and its fresh acidity calls you in for another sip on the long finish. (EB)