The 1997 Gran Reserva 904 is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano from Rioja Alta. Aged for four years in American oak barrels, this tertiary red wine presents herbal and vermouth-like notes, accompanied by aromas of cacao and tobacco, with a hint of leather. Dry and silky, the delicate and nimble flow lingers long, emphasizing the bouquet aromas—a beautiful old-fashioned Rioja at its peak. The evolution of Rioja's tannins from chalky to silky is a key factor of the region's terroir, showcased elegantly in this Gran Reserva. (JH)