Olivier Humbrecht generously opened this cellar treasure to underline the ability of wines from this site to endure in time. The 1988 vintage was long, cool and drawn-out, with a fine crop of healthy grapes which only began to develop botrytis in October and which were eventually picked in November. It’s now a deep gold in colour, with a cream-of-apricot scent with astonishing lift to it. On the palate, the tension between sweetness and acidity in this vintage seems to approach ice wine levels – but the genetic patrimony of this site and Pinot Gris itself gives it a succulent, almost pork-belly richness and unction which ice wine rarely has. Butterscotch, mushroom, summer fruits and crushed stone melt together to overwhelming effect.