Unusually forward and open, this offers an aromatic feast: lilacs, crushed stones, black pepper and cassis match up nicely with the posh oak. The structure still needs time as the firmly delineated tannins feel accentuated by the crackling acidity. But there is no rush, as indicated by the long and lavishly complex finish.

A mix of cherry, earth, mineral and vegetal flavors combine in this lean, sinewy red. There is a touch of sweet oak too, while the finish is compact, with the essence of ripe, red berry fruit. This just feels closed at the moment, yet there is a beam of pure cherry. Best from 2029 through 2047.

The 2023 les Vaucrains from Domaine Gouges will be a superb example of this outstanding vintage. The wine is deep, pure and complex on the nose, wafting from the glass in a refined mix of black plums, cassis, bonfire, venison, a complex base of dark soil tones, currant leaf and a gentle framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, nascently complex and superbly sappy at the depths of its mid-palate, with fine soil signature, ripe, buried tannins and outstanding length and grip on the perfectly balanced, young finish. This is a proper Vaucrains and will demand plenty of cellaring before it starts to drink with generosity, but it carries the imprimatur of elegance that is the hallmark of the best reds of the 2023 vintage. (Drink between 2040-2090)