Planted in 1991 with the rare Nebbiolo Rosé, the 1ha Vigna Elena has been bottled separately as a Riserva since 1997. Winemaker Valter Fissore explains that it gives a leaner body with greater tannins, requiring longer maturation. The 2019 emerges furtively yet hauntingly with rose, freesia and strawberry blossom. There are hints of brushwood and liquorice too. But really, it is the floral bouquet that takes hold, overflowing discreetly onto the pristine, raspberry saturated palate where long, smooth and silky tannins are intricately knit, giving well delineated borders. The definition of finesse. (MM)

The 2019 Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena is all from the Rose clone, and the wine is fully destemmed before fermentation. A transparent red color, the nose is very nuanced, with aromas of cedar, incense, fresh flowers, rose water, anise, and candied red berries. Medium-bodied, it’s linear on the palate, with a spine of fresh acidity, refined tension in the tannins, and a gently tapering finish. It has a youthfully compact structure, with tense, gripping tannins and mouthwatering notes of dried earth on the finish, its smoky perfume lasting on the back-palate. Drink 2026-2050. (AF)

This wine represents the most important selection of fruit executed at this estate within a small one-hectare parcel. The top-shelf Elvio Cogno 2019 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena is super precise and sharp with high density. The wine has a hard note that is transmitted across dark fruit, purple berries and exotic spice. That sharpness continues to the palate where you taste mineral nuances and crushed stone. It ages in oak for 36 months. I would give the Riserva more time to flesh out. Production is 5,500 bottles. (ML)