This is impressively charismatic on the nose with ripe Fuji apples, crushed hazelnuts and sunflower seeds. It’s notably rounder this year with a rather robust fruitiness and less of its usual acidic spine. Still, it’s fresh, balanced and ready to charm.

From a parcel planted in the 1980s on 161-49C rootstock, Sauzet's 2024 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières wafts from the glass with notes of pear, green apple and nutty reduction. Medium-bodied, fine-boned and racy, it's pure and saline, with a more elegant, refined profile than the chunkier adjacent Réferts. Benoît Riffault presides over this 15-hectare Pulingy-Montrachet reference point, and his 2024s have turned out very nicely. Opting not to chaptalize, with the exception of the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, the wines are pure and precise, with increasing texture and density as one ascends the appellation hierarchy. But what are the rudiments of winemaking at this address today? Hand-harvested fruit is pressed without crushing, the press cycle lasting around three and a half hours and performing "quite a few" rotations to crumble the marc. The must is sulfited at the end of the press and settled for 24 hours, but Riffault retains most of the lees, fermenting in wood with ambient yeasts. Larger formats, including foudres, now complement 228-liter Burgundian barrels. The wines are racked to tank in July-August before the new vintage, whereas the premiers and grands crus spend as much as six months on their lees before bottling. All of Sauzet's wines are bottled with high-quality unbleached natural cork.(WK)

The 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru is relatively closed on the nose, more obdurate and minimalist, though with aeration there are touches of cold stone/Alpine stream that you can eke out. The palate is fresh on the entry. Real weight here but it needs a little more tension and mineralité to lift the finish. Maybe that will develop once in bottle? At the moment I just prefer the Hameau de Blagny.(NM)