Very pure, perfumed aromas of rose petal and spice; not at all a meaty style of gewurztraminer. Impressively dense and rich, but dry and remarkably light on its feet for a wine so stuffed with material. Still quite backward. Very long, firm, pure aftertaste. Very classy example of the variety, as impressive as I've had to date from Italy. (Hofstatter's pinot noir is also one of Italy's finest.) (ST)