Tokaj is one of the oldest classified wine regions in the world. In another era, its legendary sweet wines — known as Tokaji Aszú — were the drink of aristocracy and royal courts across Europe. These were profoundly age-worthy wines, balancing intense sweetness with piercing acidity, and at their best they remain among the world’s great dessert wines. Of course, the Communist era created disastrous incentives for a region built on craftsmanship and terroir. Many of the great vineyards were absorbed by the state, quality was sacrificed for production, and some vineyard land was even converted into vegetable farms — not exactly a dignified chapter for one of the world’s historic wine regions. After the fall of Communism, however, a remarkable renaissance began. Producers reclaimed historic sites, quality rapidly improved, and collectors — along with plenty of wine nerds — started revisiting Tokaj with fresh curiosity. Interest in the classic sweet wines returned, but there was also a growing realization that the global market for dessert wine had limits. That’s where the story becomes even more interesting. Many producers shifted their focus toward dry wines — and even sparkling wines — made from the region’s signature grape, Furmint. Furmint is a fascinating variety: steely and nervy with electric acidity, yet capable of real texture and glycerol weight. It’s also highly susceptible to botrytis, which made those historic sweet wines possible in the first place, and it blends beautifully with indigenous grapes like Hárslevelű and Orange Muscat. Think about Grüner Veltliner 15 or 20 years ago. Almost no one could pronounce it, few consumers were familiar with it, and yet once people discovered its versatility and personality, it became a staple in serious wine shops around the world. Furmint feels poised for a similar evolution. Disznókő was one of the producers quick out of the gate in the early 1990s to help reestablish Tokaj’s reputation. They made some extraordinary Aszú wines — many of which are drinking beautifully right now — but they’ve also become one of the benchmark producers of dry Furmint. This bottling is a perfect introduction to the grape, or, if you’re already familiar, a strong reminder that something genuinely exciting is happening in Tokaj today. Look for notes of green apple, peach preserves, and lemon curd. The palate is racy and energetic, but there’s enough mid-palate weight to carry the acidity beautifully. Chicken paprikash would be a classic pairing, but this is an incredibly versatile wine. It works wonderfully with richer fish dishes, braised pork shoulder, or even a simple summer salad with citrus and nectarine slices. Just make sure there’s some creamy goat cheese nearby to balance that vibrant acidity.