The vines at Valenti face east, topping out at 1,600 feet above sea level on a ridge that continues to rise above them, protection from the brunt of the winds that come off the Pacific, six miles away. An extreme site, it consistently produces one of the most energized takes on syrah in California. This vintage carries that charge, like a bee-sting buzz, in its sweet black cherry flavors and cracked black pepper scents. Jason Drew makes this wine without added yeasts and with 50 percent whole clusters, cofermenting the fruit with a little viognier. It’s densely concentrated, but the freshness cuts through the wine’s power and tarry intensity, lasting with red-fruit brightness. (JG)