The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino remains a total pleasure throughout, wafting up with an enticing blend of ripe wild berries encased in an air of crushed stone as citrus and dried herbs add further complexity. This is juicy upon entry, with mineral-inflected red berry fruit depths perfectly offset by stimulating acidity. A salty tinge adds gravitas toward the close. It finishes with outstanding length and youthful tension, leaving crunchy tannins and a tart citrus tinge that keeps me looking back to the glass for another sip. I absolutely love this sultry Costanti Brunello. (EG)

2013 was much cooler than preceding vintages, and Andrea waited until the beginning of October to harvest. He says it was a good year with plenty of structure, but felt it didn't have the longevity to merit making a Riserva. Indeed, rather than a voluble powerhouse this is an understated beauty. Tight and linear with lifted florals and a hint of orange, it has mouthwatering acidity and superb freshness, and will appeal to those who prize finesse. (MM)

Macerated cherry fruit holds the center of this elegant red, accented by grass, tobacco and earth flavors. Firm yet supple and elegant, these lingers with a touch of thyme. (BS)