Look at this wine’s labeled alcohol level (15.5 percent) and you might be suspicious, but taste the wine before you pass judgment. Grown organically without irrigation at Kukkula’s hillside estate a mile north of Tablas Creek, this is a vivid and complex GSM blend. The woodsy, soy-edged black plum flavor is reminiscent of some Barossa reds, yet the tension between its succulent texture and bright, limestone-grown acidity is unique to western Paso Robles. Decant it for a lamb stew.