The 2002 Cristal Rosé is one of the most overtly vinous wines in this lineup. Rich, powerful and voluptuous on the palate, the 2002 captures the exuberance of the year in spades. Hard candy, cinnamon, spices, mint and wild flowers wrap around the resonant, opulent finish. A head-turning beauty, the 2002 has really blossomed since I last tasted it a few years ago. It is also the showiest and most exotic wine in this vertical. I imagine the 2002 will reward readers with another 15-20 years of exceptional drinking, perhaps more. There isn't too much to say, except that this is one of the great wines of the vintage.

This rosé is a light tawny-gold hue in the glass, with a gossamer feel to the mouthwatering acidity. There’s a crystalline lattice supporting flavors of dried cherry and blood orange pâte de fruit alongside savory white truffle and grilled macadamia nut, plus notes of oyster shell, smoke and saffron. Softly effervescent and creamy, with a long, long finish. Sip and savor this beauty. (AN)

Disgorged in 2019 using Lécaillon's system of 'dynamic riddling' which he claims is unique. I think he said it involved storing the bottles in wooden crates and riddling every five years, but this was at the end of a long lunch after an even longer (Wine Society) tasting. For their Vinothèque releases they don't want any notes of oxidation and they measure the amino acids every year. Magnum. Extraordinarily tight and fresh – a new expression of a famous year. Vindication of the Vinothèque release programme? 19/20 points (JR)