The 2002 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque is the latest Champagne in this series of late releases from Roederer. Rich, layered and expansive in feel, the 2002 is opulent to the core, which is to say very much in the style of the year. The Pinot in particular is so expressive in this tasting. There’s real presence and breadth here. Time has softened some of the contours, not that the 2002 needed much refining, as it was spectacular on release. Red-toned fruit, gentle spice, dried flowers, kirsch and mint are some of the many nuances that develop in a timeless, breathtaking Cristal Rosé that is simply brilliant today. (AG)

This rosé is a light tawny-gold hue in the glass, with a gossamer feel to the mouthwatering acidity. There’s a crystalline lattice supporting flavors of dried cherry and blood orange pâte de fruit alongside savory white truffle and grilled macadamia nut, plus notes of oyster shell, smoke and saffron. Softly effervescent and creamy, with a long, long finish. Sip and savor this beauty. (AN)

Disgorged in 2019 using Lécaillon's system of 'dynamic riddling' which he claims is unique. I think he said it involved storing the bottles in wooden crates and riddling every five years, but this was at the end of a long lunch after an even longer (Wine Society) tasting. For their Vinothèque releases they don't want any notes of oxidation and they measure the amino acids every year. Magnum. Extraordinarily tight and fresh – a new expression of a famous year. Vindication of the Vinothèque release programme? 19/20 points (JR)