In barrel. Includes the young vines from 2016 and 2017 of Les Charmes and Perrières (6 and 3 barrels respectively). A clear pale colour with a fair intensity of white orchard fruit on the nose, with some ripe citrus also on the palate, builds in volume to the back, very satisfying and with balanced acidity. and will have 20% of Clos de la Baronne added. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2024.

The Meursault AC at Comtes Lafon had been racked three weeks prior to my visit on the sixteenth of January and was showing very nicely. All of the family’s vines in the Dessous section of the premier cru of les Charmes have been replanted in recent years and for the foreseeable future, are now part of the villages bottling. The bouquet of the 2023 version is excellent, offering up scents of apple, pear, hazelnut, a fine base of chalky soil tones, apple blossoms and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and elegant in profile, with lovely complexity, a good core, fine soil inflection, zesty acids and a long, well balanced finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2025-2045)

The 2023 Meursault Village includes the young vines from Charmes and Perrières this year. Offering up aromas of pear, peach, white flowers and hazelnuts, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy, with a saline finish. The 2023 vintage is another success from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, now headed by Léa and Pierre Lafon, delivering both quantity and quality like 2022 before it, though in a somewhat fleshier, more extroverted style. While a few new cuvées have joined the range, for now, no big changes are afoot, and Dominque Lafon continues to be a guiding presence. Organic and biodynamic farming in the vineyards, barrel fermentation for whites, two winters' élevage on the lees for both colors and bottling under Diam technical corks (since 2013) continue to be the order of the day.(WK)