Lovely purity of fruit, with ripe apple, apricot and quince aromas, then hints of white flowers, citrus peel and spice. The texture is rich, waxy, and long; a superb wine. Lafon has nearly a hectare in Porusots, acquired from René Manuel in a métayage agreement in 2010. In 2020 the grapes were picked at 13.5% potential alcohol and lightly crushed prior to being run into cask (25% new) for fermentation and ageing. (CC)

The Lafon family decided to pick their parcel in Poruzots last in 2020, but the wine does not show any of the slightly more concentrated personality traits found in the Clos de la Barre this year, as the wine is utterly refined, classical and stunning. The nose delivers a fine aromatic constellation of apple, passion fruit, a hint of iodine, hazelnuts, chalky soil tones, orange zest, fruit blossoms and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and beautifully solid at the core, with excellent backend mineral drive, impeccable balance and grip, bright acids and a long, complex and energetic finish. This is a beautiful wine.

A particular success this year is the 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots, a lovely wine that wafts from the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, citrus zest, white flowers, blanched almonds and wheat toast. Medium to full-bodied, tangy and chiseled, it's vibrant, concentrated and incisive, concluding with a chalky finish. Assessed at this early juncture, it's as good a Porusots as I can remember tasting chez Lafon. (WK)