Another sparkling producer in our portfolio once used the word “oublié”—“forgotten”—for a batch of wines that had quietly over-aged on the lees after being misplaced in the cellar. When rediscovered, they far exceeded expectations. This Doquet takes that idea even further. With a base vintage of 1998 and an extended, unintended aging, this wine is a remarkable stroke of luck. I tasted it with Gary at the importer’s office, and it was a pleasure to watch his reaction unfold in real time—though I was equally absorbed with what was in my own glass. The nose is explosive, unfolding with layers of toasted brioche and deeply caramelized fruit. On the palate, it strikes a beautiful balance between richness and freshness—baked apple, grilled bread, and a long finish marked by candied ginger. An extraordinary find, and easily one of the most compelling Champagnes on the shelf right now.