On release, I contended that Prévost's NV Extra Brut Les Béguines LC 19 numbers among his greatest hits of the decade, and revisiting it this year only confirmed that conviction. Unwinding in the glass with rich aromas of crisp yellow stone fruits, mirabelle plum, fenugreek, spices and toasted nuts, along with subtle hints of bitter orange and plums, it's full-bodied, fleshy and vinous, with a concentrated and enveloping core of fruit, bright acids and a long, sapid finish. As readers may remember, Prévost opted to use less sugar than usual for secondary fermentation, resulting in slightly lower pressure and, importantly, a lower total alcohol percentage in this ripe vintage, so it's no surprise that LC 19's mousse is especially refined. (WK)