2021 Ata Rangi "Masters" Pinot Noir Martinborough

96+ points. The 2021 Masters Pinot Noir is thrilling. It nestles as comfortably on the tongue as the 2020. The 70% whole bunch is almost invisible, save for its impact on the structure (the air and room it creates in the mouth equals space). It's a cooler site with gravel in the clay soil, and it ripens later; so, the hang time may contribute to the width. The rollout of flavor in this wine is persistent from front to back. It's a ripper. It was my preferred single-vineyard wine in the lineup. There's redcurrant, pink peppercorn, pomegranate, juniper, dried thyme, rosemary and hints of sumac. (EL)