There are a mere 500 cases of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, which derives from vines planted in 1909. Showing fabulous richness and opulence allied to an impeccable sense of balance and nearly infinite persistence, it's a tour de force of white Châteauneuf. Hints of roasted pineapple and grilled lime mark the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate boasts layers of honeyed, creamy decadence yet remains dry, zesty and refreshing at the same time. Like most great wines, it's a study in seeming contradictions drawn together into seamless elegance. While there's a chance this wine may go through a quiescent phase, it's singing now, and if history is any indication, it will also drink well in a decade or so. (JC)

Not as immediately opulent aromatically, a little toastier than usual. Very full-bodied with noble bitterness. The oak makes itself known on the finish, but it's all in good balance for the wine. Feels fairly dry, not quite such a rich and exotic style as usual. 50% goes into barriques, a quarter of which are renewed every year. The rest goes into stainless steel. (MW)